Method

1 Paste the enlarged template onto the timber and cut round the outside using a scrollsaw or hand fretsaw. Take particular care around the head and feet and make sure the corner cuts are nice and sharp.

2 Transfer the lines of the design onto the timber, but don't transfer all the chest feather details at this stage, as they would disappear during the initial shaping.

3 Begin roughing out the shape of the eagle, reducing the depth of the front leg by about half and the back leg by about a third. Reduce the depth of the left-hand wing by about a third, working around the neck-ring. To save time 1 reduced most of the bulk using a structured tungsten carbide bit in my Dremel, but it could also be carved with chisels and gouges.

4 To allow the neck-ring to sit proud, reduce either side by 2mm (%in), and then round over the sides of the neck and head. Reduce the two head feathers at the same time by about 6mm (/.in).

5 Reduce the beak by about 6mm ('/.in) as you round off the front of the head.

6 Round over the edges of the chest, back and body down towards the legs. Round the legs and taper in the ankles.

7 Take about 2-3mm (Vi;-%in) off the depth of the whole right-hand wing, below the topmost feather and large curl.

8 Keeping the overall depth uniform, round over the top and bottom edges of the neck-ring and curve it around the neck.

9 Once all this basic shaping has been achieved, add the finer details. First step down the wing feathers from the top row, nearest the body, to the wing tip. To achieve this, pencil in the lines for the top row of feathers, then score around them with a sharp chip knife or craft knife. Create the step-down effect by reducing all the material behind the lines to a depth of 2mm (Viiin), working in the direction of the wing tip. Once the first row of feathers is complete, mark out the next row, repeating the process and stepping down each time by about 2mm (:A?in),

10 Work the long lateral feathers in a similar way, stepping them down from top to bottom lengthwise.

11 When all the long feathers have been stepped down you will notice that the previously carved feathers have been left with irregular depths, and these can now be sloped down towards the bottom of the wing to regain uniform depth,

12 Round over the top feather that runs the length of the wing, reducing the tip as necessary to give an even depth,

13 Smooth the chest of the eagle and taper the body where it meets the ring of tail feathers by about 5mm (Vein). Round it over into the back at the same time.

I 4 Draw in the feathers on the chest and then score along the lines. Working from the neck end towards the tail, define each feather by lowering the adjacent feather where it meets, but keep the tip of the next feather at its original height.

Make sure that the original shape of the body is maintained while these feathers arc being carved.

) 5 Round over the edges of the large curl at the front of the right wing, to make it into a dome shape.

1 6 Round the two feathers at the back of the head, making the terminal into a ball shape as shown.

I 7 Reduce the depth of the tail feathers, behind the two rings, by about 5mm (■Vi»in) as for the body, and then round over the sides.

18 Mark the line in the middle of the ring, notch a 'V along this line and round over the sides of the rings. Also shape the rings around the body, keeping the depth uniform.

I 9 Mark in the two lines along the length of the tail feathers and notch a 'V' into them, widening the 'V' towards the tip of the feathers. Round over the side edges of each feather as before.

20 Round over the sides of the legs and toes but leave the claws as high as possible to allow for shaping. Make each claw appear to grow out of its cuticle, by notching into the base of the claw to create a crease.

21 Taper the tip of the claw downwards and round along its length. Next, make two creases behind each cuticle by marking out with a curved gouge and then undercutting behind the curve.

22 I'o finish the head, reduce the lower half of the beak by scoring along the mid-line and paring away about 2mm (VWni,

Round over the top and lower edges of the beak.

23 Undercut the point where the forehead and cheek meet the beak to give greater definition,

24 Pencil in the eye. then use a gouge with the same sweep of curve to mark it out, keeping the tool at right angles to the head.

25 Shape the eye by chamfering into the marked line with a sharp knife, leaving the centre of the eye dome-shaped.

Mark the small circle in the centre of the eye with the tip of a knife.

26 The diagonal lines along the wing feathers are made by cutting down at right angles with a straight chisel, or by using a V-tool to mark along the line,

27 If necessary, sand lightly, and then apply the finish of your choice, I used a clear wax polish and then, to give the appearance of age, 1 went over it with a dark wax polish. 1 wiped this off before it dried. so that it stayed in the lines and creases, then applied a further coat of clear wax polish,

28 To allow the eagle to be hung on a wall, drill a 2mm (Vrin) hole in the back, slightly off-centre to counterbalance the difference in si/e and shape of the wings. This can then be hooked over a small nail tapped into the wall, so that it sils flush against the wall.

0 0

Post a comment